Power Tools Are Easy to Shop For and You Should Be Able to Find Products That You Need

By Louie A Potts

Power tools come in a variety of shapes and sizes these days and buying them can be a bit confusing, simply because there's so much available on today's market. So, if you're interested in buying something that'll help speed up your DIY tasks then you should have a good look around first.

There are a few things that you'll need to consider before you even think about buying anything. Firstly, you'll need to decide what sort of power tools you need. There are so many things available these days it can be hard to work out what does what.

Depending on the home improvement projects you have in mind, you'll need to think about what sort of things you'll need. Many people usually opt for the simple power screwdriver or perhaps a drill. If this is going to be your first time buying or you have little DIY experience then perhaps it's best to aim for something simple first.

An electric screwdriver would be an ideal first purchase and is certainly not something to be ashamed of. Power tools such as the electric screwdrivers available on today's market are brilliant and will save you a lot of time while you're working.

You may also want to consider a drill or some sort but it really depends on the projects you have in mind. Also, you should think about how often you'll be doing things around your home. Most of the time, someone who rarely does home improvement will buy a huge range of power tools to then only use a few of them once.

Make sure you're realistic about how often you will be using these purchases - otherwise you'll be wasting money. However, if you're the kind of person who will likely whack out the tool belt every weekend then perhaps you can spend a little more.

That brings me nicely onto my next point. You should think about a budget; a lot of power tools can be expensive but if you have a budget in mind then it can sometimes stop you from overspending. Many people simply get too exciting when they're shopping and a budget can be used as a mental barrier to stop you from spending too much.

You will need to be realistic about your budget though, otherwise you won't be able to afford very much at all. This is why research is so important. You will need to make sure that you have budgeted for what you need but that you don't end up overspending.

While performing research you'll need to look into what's available and where you can find it - do some price comparison to see if you can get some better deals elsewhere. Don't always head for the larger stores such as Homebase and B&Q either - by all means, have a look at the prices but don't be fooled by their so-called "discounts". You may be able to find cheaper options elsewhere.

Overall, the market for these items is a lot bigger than people think and if you're interested in buying your first set, you will definitely have to do a bit of research to make sure you are armed with all the facts before you buy anything.

Author Louie A Potts hashes out choosing power tools for your place. http://www.transtools.co.uk has brilliant information on electrical and power tools, you'll definitely be able to buy what you need.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Louie_A_Potts
http://EzineArticles.com/?Power-Tools-Are-Easy-to-Shop-For-and-You-Should-Be-Able-to-Find-Products-That-You-Need&id=2361385

Electric Tools: Rotary Hammer or Hammer Drill? Which masonry tool is better?

Commonly, it is confused on what tool to use when drilling masonry. Both the Rotary Hammer and the Hammer Drill can be one's best option. Each having a different set of purposes.

The Rotary Hammer and the Hammer Drill.

Hammer drills are small and shaped like your household hand drill and made for light work. It is essentially a drill with a ratchet mechanism that vibrates the bit at a high speed chipping away at the masonry substrate.

Much the same way, a Rotary hammer, is a hammer with a larger motor than a drill which beats on the end of the bit in a hammering motion. This hammering action transfers energy from the bit to the hard carbide chipping away at the concrete or stone.

The rotary hammer also has what used to be called a tool bit driver, which rotates the bit while the piston is beating on it. The rotation of the fluted bit pulls the debris out of the hole that the hammer is making.

So which tool is the best option? The Rotary Hammer or the Hammer Drill?

It all revolves around the purposes.

A Hammer Drill is used:

* When making small holes, such as 3/8 or smaller

* For mortar, concrete blocks or bricks and NOT for reinforced concrete or stone

* When small holes are needed for anchors or for any necessary injections

Rotary Hammers are best for:

* With dense materials such has reinforced concrete or stone

* extensive work

* With holes in masonry up to three inches in diameter (however, even larger holes can be made with hollow core bits)

Hammer drills are smaller in size and usually more affordable.

So, unless you want to spend the extra money use the Hammer Drills on the small jobs and save the Rotary hammers for the big jobs.

Beware The Dangers of Electric Tools

by Geoff Cummings

Electric woodworking tools are often used. It is very important that careful thought and great care be taken with them, for they can inflict serious wounds.

Perhaps the most common electric tool, aside from drills, is the power handsaw.

In the case of a power handsaw, the blade must be kept sharp to run easily and safely. The machine is very dangerous if the blade becomes dull, for instead of cutting the wood fibers, the blade tends to climb on top of them and acts as a wheel, propelling the saw in your direction at a very fast speed.

Clamping a straight edge (a straight narrow board) near the line you want to cut, and then sliding the base of your electric saw along it, will ensure a safe cut, for this will keep the saw from binding. When the saw binds, it comes back at you in what is called a “kickback.” Generally, it is good to keep both hands on the saw.

Have the piece you are cutting in a solid, safe position and always maintain good footing. The operator of an electric handsaw should always keep in position so that if the saw kicks back, he can maintain control of it. A key to the safe use of electric hand tools is: Always think ahead about what could happen before it occurs.

Sometimes a larger woodworking machine such as a table saw is used. This fine machine can do great amounts of cutting safely and quickly. It is not the most devastating of large woodworking machines, but it is one with which accidents most commonly occur. Here again, a very important safety step is to keep the blade sharp.

The few minutes taken to sharpen it are well worth the time spent. Most areas of the world require that machines of this type have a guard over the blade. This is a great protection.

A basic principle to keep in mind when operating the table saw is to keep a continual watch on where your hands are as you use the machine. Be sure that the floor is kept clean so that you do not slip. The greatest danger in operating table saws comes from “kickbacks.”

With that in mind, never place your hands in any position where they will be dragged into the blade in the event that the wood kicks back at you. This means that you must not put your hands on the portion of the saw table that is on the side of the blade away from the operator (the back side of the saw).

The saw blade should be kept approximately one quarter of an inch (6 millimeters) above the material that you are cutting. Keeping the blade this low will minimize the chance of your being injured.

The “grain” refers to the fibers in the wood, which may be pictured as long and narrow, and usually lying in the same direction as the length of a board. “Ripping” a board means cutting it in the same direction as the grain or fibers. “Crosscutting” means cutting across the fibers or grain.

When ripping (cutting a board lengthways), as you feed the material through the saw your eyes should be down where you can see your hands, the blade (covered by the guard) and the fence. (The fence is the clamping metal straightedge against which you guide the wood through the saw. This is called a ripping fence. Another fence, called a miter gauge, which slides in a groove in the saw table, is used in crosscutting.)

As you pass the wood through the saw, it is important not only to watch your hands and the blade, but to keep your eyes mainly along the ripping fence. By watching that the wood does not creep away from the fence, you will protect yourself against kickback.

Some have the practice of doing “freehand” cutting. In this case, the operator uses neither the ripping fence nor the crosscut fence for support, but rests the wood on the table and guides it into the blade with only his hands holding it. Never allow yourself to succumb to the temptation of doing this.

Kickbacks very often occur with this kind of cutting. Rather than attempting a freehand cut on a table saw, you should use a band saw or an electric jigsaw to make the cut. The few seconds saved by the freehand cut are not worth the time lost and the injury suffered should an accident occur.

Also, do not use the crosscut fence and the ripping fence at the same time, as wood can bind between them. You should use either one or the other, but material should not be cut on a table saw without using a fence to stabilize it.

In the event that you must make a small cut that requires removal of the table saw’s guard, what should you do? Use a wooden push stick so that your hand does not have to come close to the blade.

Another good thought on safety: Do not operate high-speed power equipment if you are very fatigued. Most accidents happen late in the day when workers are tired. Never yield to the temptation of hurrying with your machinery.

Then, too, do not attempt to cut badly warped or twisted boards on a table saw, since they almost invariably bind and kick back. They should first be straightened on a jointer.

It is a very good practice never to stand with your face directly in line with the turning saw blade. If a knot comes flying out of the wood, it may be hurled at you at over 100 miles (160 kilometers) an hour! Stand slightly to the right or to the left of the saw blade’s thrust. And it is a very good idea to wear safety glasses.

Other Helpful Safety Hints

Here are some other thoughts on homeshop safety. When using power hand drills, make sure that you are not standing in water, unless you are wearing rubber gloves and leak-proof rubber boots; otherwise you could be electrocuted if there is a short in the wiring.

In operating a drill press, clamp down the material being drilled, or clamp down a stop block for protection. This will keep the press from pulling the piece out of your hand and hitting you with it. Never use an electric grinding wheel without wearing a face shield or safety glasses. More than one worker has suffered permanent eye damage when a small piece of metal flew up and entered his eye. Also, the wheel could break and fly into your face.

Parents should give their children good instruction on safe use of hand and electric tools. School instruction classes also are very good, as is home study through various fine books on safe woodworking.

It is important for a person who enjoys working with wood to develop good habits in using his tools. Someday his thoughts may wander for a moment while he is working. Then, without thinking, his good habit will take over and automatically he will make the safe movement, never putting his hand in the wrong position.

So get safe work habits clearly in mind. Always make yourself follow them and they will afford you the pleasure of safe home woodworking.

About the author:

Geoff runs the site at http://www.ourhometools.com where visitors will find a wide range of discount priced power tools.

Electric Power Tools Safety

Electricity typically travels in a carefully directed closed-system. Electrical shock can occur when the body becomes part of this system, or creates a new system path. The actual damage from shock is from current flow (amperes).

As little as 50 milliamperes (or 1/20th of an ampere) can cause electrocution. The danger is multiplied by the amount of time (duration) that the shock is applied through the body.

A lower voltage of say, a 120 volt household current can cause severe shock or death in as little as 3 or 4 seconds duration. Higher voltages at less duration can cause the same amount of current flow and damage.

Shock normally occurs in one of three methods:

Touching both wires of an electrical circuit.

Touching one (hot) wire of an electrical circuit and the ground.

Touching a metallic part that has become energized and the ground.

The last method can be the least-expected type of shock related injury. If the insulation of the electrical parts or wiring inside a tool becomes deteriorated or damaged, electricity can be allowed to flow along the metal parts and body of the tool. This is why "grounding" is so important.

Electrical circuits from utilities have one or more "hot" conductors which have electrical energy, and a neutral or "grounded" conductor. This grounded conductor is the normal path electricity takes back to the utility.

If this pathway is interrupted by a person, current can then flow through the person, causing shock. To help prevent this, electrical circuits have an equipment ground, or "grounding" conductor. This is a second, redundant ground path (to be used in cases of equipment defects) which is bonded electrically to the non-current-carrying metal parts of a tool.

By having all metallic parts of tools bonded to a grounding conductor, this conductor- and not the worker can safely carry away any electrical current in the case of a tool's malfunction.

When a tool is properly grounded, current through the body is either eliminated, or greatly reduced. This is why OSHA requires either the use of GFCI receptacles, or all tools and extension cords periodically checked for ground continuity.

The GFCI receptacle is especially useful since it will (even without a good ground) sense more amperes flowing out from the power source than back from the tool. Any imbalance greater than 5 millamperes (significantly less than a shock hazard) will cause the receptacle to shut off- usually within 1/40th of a second. If a GFCI receptacle shuts off, the worker can then find the cause of the electrical problem.

Because of the hazards associated with electrical powered tools, care must be taken to examine daily the visible condition of tool and extension cords, especially the cord ends for any damage or defects. Tools should be checked out when returned to the shop before reissuing back out to the workplace.

OSHA has five overall recommendations for electrical tools safety.

Maintain tools in good condition.

Use the correct tool for the job.

Examine each tool for damage before use.

Operate tools according to manufacturer's instructions.

Use adequate personal protective equipment.

Picking the Right Power Tools

by John Gault

Gas powered or charged? Cordless or corded? Makita or Milwaukee? What is the real difference between them, and do you really need to know? Of course you need to know. Besides the fact that certain power tools are better for certain projects, it’s your money that’s being spent on these items. With that said, here are a few tips to picking the right power tools, either for the project or job at hand or for your collection.

First things first, you need to figure out how much you will be using a particular power tool. If you’re planning on building a house, you’ll probably be using an electric saw or power drill a bit more than if you’re building a small shed. In this case, it would be a good idea to invest a bit more of your hard earned money into a high grade, professional-quality power tool than to buy a new lower-end model several times during the duration of the project.

After all, the lower end models simply aren’t to be used as often as the professional ones. On the flip side of that, if you have a relatively small project to complete and you don’t foresee many additional ones down the road, there’s not really a need to pay the price of a higher-end power tool.

When it comes to the flexibility of cordless power tools, there are both pros and cons to buying such a tool. The cordless tools have a battery pack to give the necessary power to the tool, but it needs to be charged when not in use. These battery packs can last anywhere from one to several hours, depending on the brand, model, and of course, the price.

If your project needs require only a few hours of one power tool at a time, leaving enough time for the battery pack and tool to be recharged before it’s needed again, a cordless power tool will be an asset to your tool chest. But if the tool is something you’ll be using over and over again without time to recharge, you’re better off with a corded power tool and several extension cords. What good would the best power tool be to you and your project if you can’t use it because the battery pack is dead?

When the question arises about gas-powered tools, it would have to depend on your personal preferences. I personally don’t like to have extra gas lying around in my garage because I have a small child. Other than that, gas gives you a lot of the finer traits of the cordless tools, plus the longevity of the corded.

Finally, when picking out the right power tools, be sure to purchase them from a business that sells everything you need to run your tool safely. This included protective eyewear and gloves as well as the appropriate clothing for you to complete your project the same way you began it- in one piece.

John Gault recommends that you visit http://www.toolbarn.com/ for more information on Power Tools.

Next Page »